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3D printing is the very first physical step in building your SDVX Controller. The enclosure was designed in KOMPAS-3D and is made up of eight distinct parts that snap and fasten together into a sturdy, arcade-inspired housing. All STL files are located in the hardware/stl_for_printing/ folder of the repository. Before you fire up your slicer, read through the settings and notes below — a little preparation here saves a lot of frustration later when fitting buttons, encoders, and keycaps into their cutouts.
STEP files for every enclosure part are also provided in hardware/enclosure/export_step/. If you want to modify dimensions, add branding, or adjust tolerances for your specific printer, import those files into any CAD tool (Fusion 360, FreeCAD, SolidWorks, etc.) and re-export your own STLs.

Parts List

Part NameQuantityNotes
SDVX Controller - Bottom1Base plate of the enclosure
SDVX Controller - Front1Top panel with button and encoder cutouts
SDVX Controller - Walls (middle)1Side walls that join the front panel to the base
SDVX Controller - Keycap (ABCD and Start)5One keycap per main button (BT-A, B, C, D, START)
SDVX Controller - Keycap (FX)2One smaller keycap per FX button (FX-L, FX-R)
SDVX Controller - Knob2One encoder knob per rotary encoder (VOL-L, VOL-R)
SDVX Controller - SpacervariesInternal standoffs for PCB mounting
SDVX Controller - Spacer 2variesAdditional internal standoffs
Using the settings below will give you parts that are strong enough for heavy gameplay while still looking clean on the visible surfaces.
SettingStructural Parts (Bottom, Front, Walls)Keycaps & Knobs
MaterialPLA or PETGPLA or PETG
Layer height0.20 mm0.20 mm
Infill density20 %40 %
Infill patternGrid or GyroidGrid
Perimeter / wall count44
Top / bottom layers55
Print speed50 mm/s or lower40 mm/s or lower
SupportsOnly if needed by orientationNot required
Filament choice: PLA is the easiest to print and is perfectly fine for a home or desk setup. PETG offers better impact resistance and handles the friction from repeated button presses more gracefully — recommended if you plan to use the controller heavily. Support strategy: Most parts are designed to print without supports. The Bottom shell and the Walls (middle) section may require minimal supports depending on how you orient them on the bed — check your slicer’s preview and add supports only under bridging spans longer than ~30 mm.

Post-Processing

After printing, a small amount of clean-up will make assembly much smoother:
  1. Remove any support material or stringing with flush cutters or a hobby knife before test-fitting any parts.
  2. Light-sand mating surfaces — the interfaces between the Bottom, Walls, and Front panel benefit from a quick pass with 220-grit sandpaper to remove layer-line ridges that can cause misalignment.
  3. Test-fit keycaps on your Cherry MX switches before the full enclosure is assembled. Each keycap should click onto the switch stem with firm, even pressure. If a keycap is too tight, sand the inner bore lightly; if it’s too loose, a thin wrap of tape on the switch stem will take up the slack.
  4. Test-fit the front panel cutouts with an unsoldered switch to confirm the cutout dimensions match your specific switch brand before soldering anything to the PCB.
Print the encoder knobs at a very slightly smaller scale (try 99–99.5 %) or with a slightly tighter bore tolerance, then gradually sand the inner bore to achieve a snug friction fit on the LPD3806 encoder shaft. It is far easier to remove material than to add it — take your time here for a satisfying, wobble-free feel.

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